Dōgo Onsen’s 6 Recommended Tourist Spots! Visiting Matsuyama, the Setting of “Botchan”

When it comes to Dōgo Onsen, it is one of the famous hot springs in Ehime that is counted among Japan’s three ancient hot springs! And since it is located in the downtown area of Matsuyama, the largest city in Shikoku, the access for sightseeing is top-notch. In ancient times, it was praised in the oldest extant collection of Japanese poems, the "Manyōshū," and in modern times, it appears in Natsume Sōseki’s novel "Botchan," making it a hot spring with deep connections to Japanese literature. It is very easy to get to Dōgo Onsen by the streetcar that runs through Matsuyama, so Dōgo Onsen sightseeing overlaps greatly with Matsuyama sightseeing, and there are many other attractions in the surrounding area! This time, we introduce 6 recommended tourist spots that you should visit along with Dōgo Onsen.

1. Dōgo Onsen Honkan

One of Japan’s three ancient hot springs, Dōgo Onsen is a tourist spot where not only the hot water but also the building itself is indispensable. The central "Kami no Yu Honkan Building" was built in 1894 (Meiji 27) to the design of Sakamoto Matabachirō, who was of the lineage of castle carpenters of Matsuyama Castle. It took on its current form after several expansions in 1924 (Taishō 13), and currently, four buildings have been designated as Important Cultural Properties of the nation.

The Honkan was built in the year before Sōseki was appointed as an English teacher at Matsuyama Junior High School, and even in "Botchan" it is praised as "only the hot spring is splendid." Inside the building, the room said to have actually been used by Sōseki remains as the "Botchan Room," and it is open for general tourists to view. Furthermore, it is publicly stated that it is one of the models for the "Aburaya" that appears in "Spirited Away," so it is also a sacred site that Ghibli fans should visit at least once.

Dōgo Onsen Honkan has two baths, "Rei no Yu" and "Kami no Yu," with a total of four bathing courses. If you purchase an admission ticket for "Rei no Yu," you can tour the "Yūshinden," the only bathing room in Japan exclusively for the Imperial Family, with a guide’s explanation.

By the way, the Honkan has entered renovation work due to aging from January 2019. Even during the construction, bathing is possible in a limited area, so you can still fully enjoy sightseeing at the Meiji-era Dōgo Onsen Honkan.

2. Dōgo Haikara Street

Dōgo Haikara Street is a must-see tourist spot when visiting Dōgo Onsen. It is a shopping street that runs from right outside Dōgo Onsen Station to Dōgo Onsen Honkan. Not only can you enjoy the gourmet food and souvenirs of Ehime, Matsuyama, and Dōgo Onsen, but you can also enjoy hot springs that you can experience in a day trip.

■ Mikan no Ki

When you think of Ehime, many people probably think of mandarin oranges. At "Mikan no Ki," you can fully enjoy mandarin oranges, mandarin juice, mandarin jelly, and mandarin gelato, which are specialties of Ehime.

■ Iori Dōgo Main Store

Ehime is not only famous for mandarin oranges but also for Imabari towels. Their reputation is so famous that it echoes around the world. On Dōgo Haikara Street, there is "Iori Dōgo Main Store," which specializes in towels. Of course, Imabari towels are available, and the selection is so abundant that you might find yourself wanting to purchase one for yourself.

■ Dōgo Marche

"Dōgo Marche" sells specialties and souvenirs related to Ehime, Matsuyama, and Dōgo Onsen. The interior is calm and has a stylish atmosphere. Enjoy your shopping at a leisurely pace.

3. Matsuyama Castle

Matsuyama Castle, which is one of the few remaining wooden castles with a tenshu (keep) in Japan (only 12 exist), is a sightseeing spot that can be said to be a symbol of Ehime Prefecture. A total of 21 buildings, including the main keep, have been designated as Important Cultural Properties of the nation. In the 2009 Michelin Tourist Guide, it was rated with 2 stars, and in recent years it has also become a popular spot among overseas visitors.

The tenshu of Matsuyama Castle is located on a mountain with an altitude of 132 m, but since a ropeway and a lift run from the eastern foothills, you can tour without getting out of breath. The numerous stone walls, turrets, and gates lined up in succession form a rare scenery even among Japanese castles! From the three-storied main keep, you can enjoy a 360-degree panorama of Matsuyama City, including Dōgo Onsen.

If you have some energy left, on your way back, try walking down the mountain path to the southern foothills. The Ni-no-maru, where the lord used to live, has been developed as a historical garden, which is also a highlight. You will be able to fully appreciate the atmosphere of the castle with the ruins of the Ōido and the Tamon Yagura that continues long on top of the stone walls, which were revealed by excavation.

4. Dōgo Park

Dōgo Park is located in front of the Dōgo Onsen terminal or one stop before the Dōgo Park bus stop. The park itself was developed in the Meiji era, and it was once the site of Yuzuki Castle, the residence of the Kōno clan, the guardian daimyo of Iyo Province (present-day Ehime Prefecture). In a sense, the center of Ehime Prefecture was once right in front of Dōgo Onsen.

Although no buildings remain now, earthen ramparts and moats completely surround the hill of the castle ruins. In addition, for a long time after the war, the Ehime Prefectural Zoo was located in the park, but it was relocated in 1988 as the Ehime Prefectural Tobe Zoo, and excavation investigations began as a result. Through this, various ruins related to the lives of samurai at that time were discovered, and some have been restored as samurai residences.

Yuzuki Castle was selected as one of "Japan’s 100 Famous Castles" in 2006, and it is an increasingly popular tourist spot in recent years. There are also observation decks and museums, making it perfect for a stroll after enjoying the hot water of Dōgo Onsen!

5. Botchan Train

The Botchan Train, which appears in Natsume Sōseki’s "Botchan" as a "matchbox-like train," refers to the steam locomotive used in the light railway era of Iyo Railway, and it has been restored and is operated as a streetcar vehicle even today.

Since it is a sightseeing train, the stops are limited to only five locations: Dōgo Onsen, Daikaidō, Matsuyama Station, in front of JR Matsuyama Station, and Furumachi. It operates on weekdays as well, but there is a significant increase in service on weekends and holidays. There are also economical tickets that combine admission with Matsuyama Castle sightseeing.

For those who love railways, check out the situation at Dōgo Onsen Station. The train is reversed at the transfer table ahead of the station, and the carriages are connected manually by human power. Next to the station, there is also an outdoor replica of the Botchan Train’s No. 1 locomotive, so be sure to take a picture as a souvenir of your Dōgo Onsen sightseeing.

6. No·Ball Museum

Matsuyama City is the birthplace of haiku poet Masaoka Shiki. Shiki is known not only for his literature such as haiku but also for his deep passion for baseball and go, and he has been inducted into the halls of fame in both worlds.

Especially regarding baseball, he was so enthusiastic that those around him found it astonishing, and he even used the elegant pen name "Nobōru" (a play on his real name "Noboru") derived from it. In honor of this, the "No·Ball Museum" was created inside Botchan Stadium (Matsuyama Central Park). This museum is a historical museum of baseball, where you can learn about the history of professional and high school baseball.

Inside the museum, there are numerous cherished items used by professional players, such as gloves and handprints of Ichiro and Hideki Matsui! Exhibits of high school baseball materials dating back to the Meiji era are also on display, making it an unmissable museum for baseball fans. In addition, you can try virtual pitching, have your athletic abilities measured, and even enjoy baseball quizzes, among various other recreational activities. The museum is located just after getting off at Ichitsubo Station, next to Matsuyama Station on the JR Yosan Line.

7. Dōgo Giyaman Glass Art Museum

When you visit Dōgo Onsen Honkan, you are sure to notice the red-paneled glass on the drum tower called Shinrokaku. If you saw that glass and thought "It’s so beautiful!" wouldn’t you want to see it up close? Starting with the red glass of Shinrokaku, the "Dōgo Giyaman Glass Art Museum" exhibits glass items from the Edo period known as "giyaman" or "biidoro" (both meaning glass) as well as glass art pieces from the Meiji to Taishō periods.

In addition to about 300 precious glass art pieces, the garden features objects that utilize glass and water, making it a sightseeing spot full of highlights. At night, the garden is illuminated, transforming it into a fantastical space of glass and light.

There is also a café and a shop inside the museum, so you can actually purchase dazzling glass art pieces. Since it is a short walk from Dōgo Onsen, be sure to include it in your sightseeing itinerary.

◎ Summary

Not only are there historic buildings and a hot spring town, but Matsuyama also has many historical spots such as a castle and a baseball museum. Moreover, Matsuyama is famous for its streetcars! Not only the Botchan Train, but using the streetcar for your travels will also be a wonderful memory of Dōgo Onsen sightseeing. Have a wonderful sightseeing trip at Dōgo Onsen to soothe both your mind and body.