Aizuwakamatsu Castle (Tsuruga Castle) is a renowned fortress that, during the Boshin War, withstood continuous bombardment from the new government forces for an entire month. Though Tsuruga Castle was once dismantled, it was eventually rebuilt after passing through various eras and lords. The castle now embodies a history so deep that words alone cannot fully express it.
Today, Tsuruga Castle stands as the symbol of Aizuwakamatsu City in Fukushima Prefecture, attracting countless visitors with its proud history spanning more than 600 years. From its past to its highlights, here we will introduce the full charm of Tsuruga Castle—an essential stop when visiting Aizu.
History of Tsuruga Castle
Tsuruga Castle was built in 1384. It began with Naomori Ashina constructing the Higashi-Kurokawa residence, regarded as the castle’s predecessor.
In 1593, Gamo Ujisato built a seven-tiered black keep and named it “Tsuruga Castle.” He also changed the place name from Kurokawa to “Wakamatsu” and laid out the town.
During the Boshin War, it became famous as a fortress that endured a month of fierce fighting, spreading its name throughout the nation—something you may have heard even if you are not a history enthusiast.
The castle also saw notable figures such as Date Masamune, Uesugi Kagekatsu, and Tokugawa Iemitsu’s half-brother Hoshina Masayuki enter its gates. Though demolished in 1874 under government orders, it was rebuilt in 1965. Later, in 2001, the Minami Hashiri Nagaya and Hoshii Yagura were restored using Edo-period construction techniques.
Castle Keep
The current keep, rebuilt in 1965, has five tiers. Inside, it functions as a local history museum showcasing Aizu’s history and culture.
The first floor exhibits around 1,000 cultural artifacts and audiovisual displays presenting the flow of history. The second floor focuses on successive lords, displaying helmets and documents. A highlight here is a video presentation of lessons at Nisshinkan, the highest-level school where the Byakkotai (White Tiger Corps) also studied.
The third floor explains Aizu and the Boshin War through panels. The fourth floor introduces Aizu-related historical figures and provides a view of the castle’s distinctive red roof tiles—the only keep in Japan with such tiles. Seeing them up close is highly recommended.
The fifth and top floor serves as an observation deck, offering panoramic views of Aizuwakamatsu surrounded by mountains. At the base of the keep, visitors can also see remains of salt storehouses and stone walls.
Tea House “Rinkaku”
Rinkaku, located in Tsuruga Castle Park, is said to have been built by Shoan, the son of Sen no Rikyu. After the Boshin War, it was relocated, but in 1990 it was reconstructed in its original location.
Gamo Ujisato, who named the castle “Tsuruga,” was a cultured man who loved the tea ceremony. Though Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered Rikyu to commit suicide, Ujisato sheltered Rikyu’s son Shoan to preserve the tea tradition and petitioned Hideyoshi for the revival of the Sen family.
The tea house is believed to have been built during Shoan’s time in hiding. Later, Hideyoshi permitted the Sen family’s revival. Today, visitors can enjoy tea here, and tea gatherings are held regularly.
Connected to Rinkaku is “Hokakutei,” where decorative features are permitted, including the “red pine alcove pillar” said to have been carved by Shoan. Immersing yourself in the tea world while reflecting on Rikyu and Shoan is highly recommended.
Honmaru Hoshii Yagura
The castle’s main enclosure (Honmaru) was heavily protected by two gates (Iron Gate and Back Gate), three turrets (Hoshii Yagura, Moon Viewing Yagura, and Tea Jar Yagura), and a long barracks. Among the eleven double turrets, Hoshii Yagura was the largest. It guarded the southern side of the main enclosure and served as a food storehouse, including dried rice (hoshii).
Hoshii, a preserved food that could be quickly eaten by soaking in water or hot water, was especially vital during wartime. It may be thanks to Hoshii Yagura that the castle endured a month-long siege during the Boshin War.
Other sights in the Honmaru include the Moon Viewing Yagura ruins, famous for their beautiful moonlit scenery, and the “Monument of Moon Over the Ruined Castle,” said to have inspired the classic song “Kōjō no Tsuki” (Moon Over the Ruined Castle).
Kitademaru
Kitademaru was a key area protecting the castle’s main entrance. Approaching it alone was difficult for enemies, and during the Boshin War, the new government army reportedly could not even locate the main gate because of Kitademaru’s defenses. Even if Kitademaru were taken, the structure allowed counterattacks from all sides, earning it the nickname “Minagoroshi-maru” (Massacre Enclosure).
Today, Butokuden Hall stands there, used for kendo and archery practice.
Kitademaru also features “Tsubakisaka,” a slope leading to the main enclosure. Whoever controlled this slope was said to control the castle itself, highlighting its strategic importance. Visitors can truly feel the history of Tsuruga Castle, once considered nearly impregnable.
Oyaku-en
Oyaku-en is a daimyo-style landscape garden designated as a national scenic spot. It is located about a 15-minute walk from Tsuruga Castle.
Famous for being cherished by successive lords, the garden is renowned for its seasonal flowers and plants. Its name, “Oyaku-en,” comes from the medicinal herb garden established there. Even today, visitors can enjoy the garden’s special herbal tea.
During the Boshin War, it was used as a field hospital by the new government forces, which spared it from destruction. Visitors can still experience the garden’s original form today.
Sightseeing Bus “Haikara-san”
The “Haikara-san” is a sightseeing bus that tours Aizu. It stops at sites including Iimoriyama, where the Byakkotai met their end, and Nanukamachi, a district with streets rich in old-fashioned atmosphere.
Running every hour from 9:00 to 19:00, the Haikara-san bus is perfect for exploring Aizu’s history efficiently. To reach Tsuruga Castle, get off at the “Tsurugajo Iriguchi” stop, then walk about five minutes.