A city where Arabian Nights play out! The Old City of Sana’a, Yemen’s World Heritage Site

Located in the southwestern part of the Arabian Peninsula, Sana’a is the capital of Yemen. At an altitude of about 2,300 meters, it is unusually high for a capital city, and it is also one of the fastest-growing cities in the world. At the center of the ever-expanding Sana’a lies the walled Old City, a historic settlement that has existed for more than 2,500 years. Because of its rich history, the Old City of Sana’a was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.

Although Sana’a prospered through trade since ancient times, it has also been drawn into numerous conflicts. To protect itself, the Old City of Sana’a incorporates many defensive features. Even today, men wearing jambiyas—traditional curved daggers—tucked into their belts and women completely covered in black mantles can be seen in this Yemeni city. This article will introduce the highlights of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Old City of Sana’a.

What is the Old City of Sana’a?

Often referred to as the world’s oldest city, the Old City of Sana’a is said, in legend, to have been founded by Shem, the son of Noah from the Old Testament. In the same Old Testament, the town was also linked to Uzal, a descendant of Eber—the ancestor of the Jewish people—hence, Sana’a was once called “Azal.”

Around the beginning of the Common Era, the name changed to the current “Sana’a,” which in the South Arabian language means “fortified stronghold.” This suggests that by that time, the city was already surrounded by walls. In the 6th century, control over trade routes—both maritime via the Red Sea and overland caravan paths—led to disputes among the Himyarite Kingdom and the Asaba Kingdom of Arabia, and the Aksumite Kingdom of Africa.

Until the founding of the Kingdom of Yemen in 1918, Sana’a was ruled by various Islamic states and functioned as a key regional city. Since Yemen’s independence, Sana’a has remained the nation’s capital.

Access to the Old City of Sana’a

Yemen has no railways, so from the airport to the city, you can use buses, taxis, or shared minibuses called “dappabs.” The UNESCO-listed Old City of Sana’a is small enough to explore entirely on foot.

Recommendation ①: Brick buildings in the Old City of Sana’a

The defining characteristic of the buildings in the Old City is that they are all made of brick. The use of bricks is said to date back to the Mesopotamian civilization, when sun-dried bricks were the norm. Around 3000 BCE, stronger fired bricks began to be produced, enabling the construction of larger buildings.

The Old City of Sana’a’s structures are made with these fired bricks in what is known as the Yemeni style. The contrast between the cliffside homes and the cobblestone streets is uniquely beautiful. In Sana’a’s brick buildings, thick sun-dried bricks are used on the inside, and fired bricks on the outside. However, firing bricks consumes large amounts of firewood, so deforestation has recently become an environmental concern.

The Old City is home to 6,500 houses and 106 mosques, all in the striking Yemeni brick style. Windows feature small openings called “qamariyya” for lighting, where the white of the windows interlaces with the red of the bricks, further enriching the vibrancy of the streetscape.

Inside the city walls are also “bustans”—communal gardens designed to sustain life during sieges. In times of war, residents could live self-sufficiently. Defensive designs are even present in ordinary homes, with living spaces placed high above ground to protect families if enemies breached the city.

Recommendation ②: The night view of the Old City of Sana’a

While the Old City is magnificent by day, at night it offers an even more breathtaking sight. As the sun sets, lights gradually illuminate the houses—like striking a matchstick one by one—creating a moving and welcoming scene for visitors.

When darkness fully settles, the Old City transforms into a dreamlike landscape, as if from another world. The night view of Sana’a is beyond words—truly an Arabian Nights scene come to life.

◎ Summary

As of 2018, Foreign Affairs has issued a Level 4 travel advisory for all of Yemen, its highest warning level, advising evacuation and prohibiting travel for any reason.

This is due to Yemen’s ongoing civil war, which began in 2015 and has left the country unable to function as a state. The conflict is a three-way struggle involving the Sunni faction in the south, the Houthi faction in the north, and Al-Qaeda-affiliated extremist groups. Unfortunately, the day when travelers can freely visit the World Heritage Old City of Sana’a does not appear to be near.